The Places of Ecuador

Looking back on this trip, it is truly unbelievable to consider how much we have been able to see and how lucky we are. It seems as though this trip has given us the opportunity to visit more locations and attractions than many Ecuadoreans have been able to see. The fact that at twenty years old, we had the opportunity to visit places such as the cloud rainforest, the Amazon and the Galapagos among other locations is extremely fortunate. This trip has been the experience of a lifetime in terms of learning about new cultures and peoples as well as the chance to more or less live on your own in a foreign country.  The following is a small selection of pictures from many of the amazing locations we have seen in Ecuador.

The Ecuadorian Family

The Ecuadorian family is quite different than the American family. One of the biggest differences is the closeness of the family. In many cases you will have a thirty something year old son or daughter living with the mother and father. This is certainly a very rare occurrence in the United States, but due to the recession has become more common. As is the case with my host family, the son is living on his own with a family but visits with his wife and daughter almost daily to eat lunch or dinner. It is amusing to see a grown man calling his mother “mami” and staying as much as he does. There is even a close relationship between the daughter-in-law and the mother, which is rarely the case in the United States. It is also different to see so many of the mothers staying at home and being in charge of all of the cooking and cleaning while the husband works. This is not the case in every situation however. For example, my teacher at Amauta is a single mother with two kids who works during the day. There is also a clear importance on family and seeing everybody regularly with frequent get-togethers and parties. It is also interesting because almost everybody lives within five minutes of each other and are always around. After speaking with my mother, one of her concerns was the new educational system with some students taking classes during the day, and others taking classes at night, that it would disrupt the family dynamic and the closeness of the family. It will be interesting to see whether this closeness can continue, or if it will eventually go away as it has in the United States. 

America in Ecuador

Of all the observations you can make about the people of Cuenca and Ecuador in general, one of the most obvious is the prevalence of American brand names such as Fox, Abercrombie, and Aeropostale. This is shocking when you see how much these outfits cost, which is usually double what we would likely pay in the United States for the clothes, and many obvious bootleg “American brands” as well. This consumerism is not limited to clothes, however. Electronics are also in high demand, the Blackberry appears to be a necessary fashion statement in this country and with the standard Blackberry going for around 300 dollars it is a mystery as to how some people can afford them. The shocking cost of products can also be seen in appliances, such as televisions which are much more expensive that in the United States. From what I have observed and been told by Cuencanos, there is a false perception that Ecuadorian products are inferior, and therefore you will see many products made in South American countries, with an Italian or American label on them. It is certainly something that will be hard to overcome, but needs to change. Living with my host family, I was shocked to see the host brother and how much money he appeared to have. Every time he comes to the house he is showing me one of his very nice, tricked out cars with upgraded everything. I recently learned that he is in business with his uncle in the United States, buying and more or less flipping cars for profit. In the United States, we have always been considered a consumerist culture so observing the same thing in Ecuador was quite surprising. The idea of young people buying nice, stylish clothes is nothing new, but considering how much money they earn I wonder how it is possible. With people only making between 2.50 and 5 dollars an hour for a standard job, it seems as though it would be almost impossible to spend 300 dollars for a new phone and 30 or more dollars for a new t-shirt through the use of a payment plan.This shift towards consumerism appears to be more of a generational phenomenon, and one that primarily effects the younger generation. With the spread of the internet and Facebook, you can definitely see the detrimental effects of globalization. As the world begins to shrink and companies see an emerging market for their products it is possible to notice a cultural shift that will hopefully not change Ecuador too much. Hopefully Ecuador will be able retain its beauty and authenticity in the future. 

El Gobierno De Cuenca

Lab at ETAPA

One of the things that is very interesting to observe in Cuenca is the Municipalities of Cuenca, similar to the different departments that would be found in a city in the United States, such as the water and electric departments. There are many different types of these municipalities; some such as ETAPA, which is the Empresa de Tratamiento de Agua Potable y Alcantarillado or water and waste management, are by far the biggest of the empresas, and are in charge of the most. ETAPA is in charge of the waste management, water treatment, telecommunications, including the telephones and internet service, along with being in charge of Cajas National Park. There are many others, such as EMUCE, which cares for the cemeteries. There are fewer private businesses, even in terms of building and construction companies. Therefore, many of the services offered are controlled through the city of Cuenca and the mayor. Every day, you can see the cleaning crews walking the streets and parks and cleaning up all of the trash. This is not something you are as likely to see in the United States. However, this is not necessarily the norm. In cities such as Machala, there was trash everywhere, and there seemed to be almost no municipal presence in services such as street cleaning or police. I was also able to visit the wastewater treatment plant in Cuenca, which was operated in almost the exact same way and with the same technologies as those in the United States. Despite some of the impressive aspects of these organizations, many have a long way to go. For example, the empresa in charge of maintaining the buses and operating the public transit system is also supposed to be in charge of issuing fines for violations of buses that pollute too much, or are too old. This is clearly not done, and my host family has said that it is common for operators to bribe the empresa in order to avoid purchasing a new vehicle; this is evident when you see the horrible pollution spewing from many of the buses. Although there are some shortcomings to the system, there are many things that cities in the US could take away from their operations, such as their recycling programs in which they dispose of used oil from all companies and trucks in Cuenca, along with collecting used batteries. It is clearly not a perfect system, but very impressive nonetheless. 

The Flower Industry

The Ecuadorean flower industry seems to be little known by those outside of Ecuador. Many people likely do not realize that many of their flowers come from these plantations. The flower industry is certainly one of Ecuador’s emerging industries. Ecuador is actually one of the best places in the world to grow flowers due to the elevation and around thirteen hours of sunlight year round. I was expecting a wide variety of colorful flowers, but was surprised to see that they only grew two varieties of Baby’s Breath, or filler flowers. It was fascinating to see the process of cutting the flowers down to size, cleaning them, and preparing them for sale. It was also interesting to see some of the flowers you likely find in a flower shop near you in the process of being picked and shipped. However, one of the most interesting aspects of the plantation and the operation was the international component. The plantations biggest client was Europe along with the United States. It was interesting because part of the requirement to ship to Europe was a clean record in terms of process, chemicals used, and also the condition of the factory and the workers themselves. The workers appeared to be relatively happy, and had access to many services, such as an onsite doctor, a free bus service to pick them up, basic medication, along with nice looking facilities. However, the work was clearly monotonous and it made for a long day. Talking to the manager, it was difficult to tell whether these services would be provided without the international rules that hold them to good practices in order to sell flowers to the European market. It seemed as though the building, and its facilities, and practices in general were a result of requirements in the European market, rather than legitimate improvements. Whether this is true or not is debatable, but the resulting conditions are positive nonetheless.  It was certainly interesting to see a company operate their business strictly in accordance with outsiders rules and regulations. This operation provides an incredible example of the power of globalization throughout the world. This is certainly in instance in which holding yourself to the standards of foreign customers has led to improvements in the lives of workers and the conditions of the plantation. Hopefully this improvement can continue in other industries and begin to lose the need for outside influence to spur change.

Tourism and the Galapagos

Of all the places in Ecuador, and even the world, the Galapagos is one of the most well-known, and one that many people dream of visiting. It is a place you hear about from early on in biology classes and in textbooks, so it was remarkable to have the chance to go there. The Galapagos Islands were a bit of a mystery to me, and when I arrived, it was certainly not what I expected. It is very interesting to go to a location in Ecuador, 600 miles off the coast, and find mostly North American and European tourists. It was also a surprise to see how many people lived on the islands, and the way they were controlled.  Only a limited amount of Ecuadoreans were permitted to live in the Galapagos, their residency was contingent on their employment, if they were to lose their job, they would face deportation to the mainland. Ecuador finds itself in an interesting dilemma, with one of the premier biological locations in the world being a rather large source of income and tourism for the country. The question is where to draw the line? Despite the remoteness of the Islands and the many barriers to entry, such as cost, location, and accommodations, there were certainly no shortage of tourists in the Galapagos. Considering the amount of income the Galapagos brings in, it is unlikely that the country will decrease admittance to the islands. However, it is important that the government properly allocates the money that it earns to conservation measures and habitat protection. It is interesting to talk with the host families and realize how hard it is to go somewhere like the Galapagos for Ecuadoreans due to the artificial inflation of prices and services due to the tourist market. Going to a cheap restaurant in Cuenca for lunch would likely cost no more than three dollars, a similar meal in the Galapagos would be around fifteen dollars. I was also surprised to see almost no park rangers like what we would see in the United States. Instead, there were guides trained by the National Park that had to accompany you everywhere, and despite being licensed through the National Park, they were guides who either worked for, or owned their own company. The volume of tourism necessitates a very large quantity of supplies, food, and other necessities to be shipped in to the Islands, further increasing the traffic and pollution, and is potentially hurting the environment people are coming to see for its remoteness and lack of human influence. I think that the cost is a fortunate barrier to entry that more or less ensures that the visitors who come are those who really appreciate the nature and will not be destructive. Although people working in the Galapagos are able to do very well for themselves, and it is an amazing site to see, it remains to be seen whether the use of the Galapagos as a tourist attraction will hurt the Galapagos in the long run. 

Differences in Ecuador

Being in Ecuador, it is remarkable to notice the differences between this country and the United States. The varying levels of development and infrastructure throughout the country are dramatic. Being in a city like Cuenca is much the same as being in any other big city in the United States however, only 15 minutes outside of the city center, you seemingly enter a different world. Going to Banos outside of Cuenca really made this apparent. In Banos, as you entered the touristy center of the town, with resorts and hotels everywhere, it doesn’t look much different than in the US. But after a short walk up the road, you enter a very poor almost entirely indigenous town with mud houses and nothing but farming. As you keep going up the mountain, the differences became more and more apparent. There were even fewer newer houses, and the houses became much more spread out. There were less typical houses and more farms with cattle, sheep, and chickens roaming the hills. I was able to see the other side of the mountain and see a little village with farms spread out on the hills. This can be found all over Ecuador and is very remarkable to witness. To me, the most shocking trend is the obvious globalization and development in remote areas right in the middle of poor towns. This was also very noticeable in Banos, as I walked through the different towns and saw mud houses with indigenous farmers right next to giant brand new houses that would be considered nice in the United States. After talking with my host mom about the development and changes in Cuenca, I was shocked to learn that the streets in our neighborhood had only been paved about 15 years ago, and there were no internet cabinas or stores anywhere near the house, now there are at least five within a few minutes of the house. This change is also apparent between different cities. Cuenca is a relatively affluent city, while other cities such as Machala seem to really lack many of the businesses and appear to be much more rural and poor. The family of my host mom has also changed remarkably. With two of her brothers owning a jewelry business in Chicago and becoming quite wealthy. This is a good example of the differences in development within Ecuador. As people begin to become rich, and the country sees new signs of development, indigenous women continue selling their products for cheap, and continue to live in the country on their farms. It is really interesting to see a country in the middle of such amazing development and change, and to know that even a few years from now it will likely be a very different country. 

Oil in the Oriente

Going into the trip, one of the locations that I anticipated the most was the trip to the rainforest or Oriente. I could not wait to learn more about the rainforest, and the problems associated with the industry present in the rainforest. After doing some research, I learned of the prevalence of oil companies in protected land and the effect of these production sites on the local indigenous populations, some of which are still living in voluntary isolation away from any civilization or industrialization. After flying into Coca, and taking a two and a half hour boat ride into the Amazon, followed by another two hour bus ride, I was shocked to be seemingly so far from civilization and development, and to see the development brought by the oil companies. Driving through the rainforest and passing oil wells and camps frequently was a disappointing sight. The company Repsol seemed to be everywhere, and appeared to develop all of the roads and infrastructure in the area. It was incredible to see the dirt and dust that surrounded the road and oil camps, along with the obvious deforestation and clearing of trees close to the road and the camps. I had heard of PetroEcuador going into the Amazon, but it was interesting to see a Spanish company that was primarily owned by Chinese with such a presence in the area. As we made it to the military checkpoint, everything was made by Repsol or developed by them. It is fascinating to consider the influence that such a large company could have over such sovereign matters as a military checkpoint. Even the guides in the Tiputini Field station wore shirts with Repsol stamped on the sleeve. Trans-national companies are clearly stretching to all corners of the world, and affecting everything they go near.  In an area as undeveloped and far removed from civilization as the Amazon area, that level of help certainly has the potential to bring support or at least less resistance. Knowing little about the company, it is difficult to know the reasons behind their assistance, whether it is for the good of the area or profit. Despite this, this is an example of the effect a company such as Repsol can have, and if they are well controlled, can provide much needed assistance to the people and to protecting the environment. Considering the importance of oil in Ecuador, and the volume found in the Oriente, it is unlikely that development will slow. This increases the necessity of green practices and efforts towards sustaining the Yasuni National Park and surrounding areas.

The Old and the New

One of the most striking aspects of Ecuador is the seemingly two different Ecuador’s developing side by side. The old and the new.  Coming from the United States, which is a highly developed and regulated country, and going to a country such as Ecuador, the differences were clearly visible. Seeing the indigenous women all over the city selling their food, handicrafts, and tending their stores alongside the a typical mestizo Ecuadorean is quite striking. It seems as though the city and Ecuador is developing around many of the indigenous peoples and the more traditional culture. This can be seen with the omnipresent street vendors and typical panaderias and the market. But the similarities between the young people of the United States and the young people of Ecuador are amazing. Having the new Blackberry is very important, along with the nice new shoes or clothes. It is amazing to go to a giant market and walk through and see vendor after vendor selling North American clothes and brands at prices that are often much higher than in the US. One thing I have learned from the people here is the false perception that the only brands that are worth buying or are of good quality are from the United States or Europe. This is not limited to clothes. All of the popular brands of shaving cream or deodorant are everywhere and at much higher prices. It is interesting to see globalization first hand everywhere you look. Because much of the technology and goods are imported to Ecuador, there are high taxes on many of the electronic goods. It is common to see goods that would be relatively cheap in the United States for more than double the price. Thinking about the cost of these perceived necessities is very sad considering the typical person only makes about 250 dollars. The force of consumerism is certainly powerful and likely hurting many people who are required to take out loans and spend incredible amounts of money for things that they believe they need. With this shift, it is interesting to notice the merging of old and new. Change does not happen over night, so there is still an incredible level of uniqueness and a glimpse into what life was like in the old days. The interesting aspect of globalization and change in a less developed country is the mixing of old and new, and the gradual but profound change that occurs as time goes on. It is a unique experience to leave the United States and see common products being highly sought after being so expensive. Globalization is certainly a powerful force. 

The Cloud Forest

After a short stay in Quito, we headed to the cloud forest.  After leaving early in the morning, we began a three hour bus ride towards the Intag Valley and Junin. The bus ride toward the cloud forest was one of the most incredible experiences of my life. Going through the mountains in a large tour bus was a bit of a sublime experience. As we traveled up dirt and gravel roads thousands of feet up in the mountains with a few feet of room separating us from the valley floor, there were more than a few frightening turns and views. The severity of the peaks and valleys and the vast green terrain was like nothing I have ever seen before. It was also remarkable how remote and removed these mountains were from seemingly all civilization. As we reached the point in the journey where our bus could no longer make it up the mountain, we loaded up in an open air truck and began the second part of the bumpy journey on even less developed and narrower roads. After another hour or so, we finally made it to the Junin area and walked to our eco cabana. The terrain was absolutely incredible, and the place we stayed was amazing. After settling in, the group went for a long hike to a coffee and banana plantation, and then made our way to the village of Junin. It was incredible to see people from the movie Under Rich Earth in person, and the location in which it was filmed. What quickly became apparent was how nice these people were, and the unfortunate situation this remote community was in the middle of, with a multi-national company attempting to move in and potentially destroy their land and way of life. After playing soccer with some of the local kids in the village, and seeing the beauty of their village and surroundings, it really made me think about how important certain things really are. These people live life in a very simple yet fulfilling manner. They have managed to maintain the beauty of their surroundings without allowing outside influence to corrupt their lives. Rather than selling out to outsiders, they have learned how to utilize their resources such as coffee and cocoa and sell them on the market. Also utilizing skills in weaving and crafts in order to create products to sell in Otavalo. I really appreciated that level of entrepreneurship and willingness to learn what works and what does not work. The people of Junin seem to have really found their niche and the potential for sustainable growth without the presence of a mining company. Junin should serve as an example for how to grow and provide jobs without ruining your way of life. The ability to see such a unique community is an experience I will never forget.

Bienvenidos a Ecuador

I was incredibly excited going into the trip, and had no idea what to expect, this being my first time out of the country. As we waited in the airport for the flight, it began to be more real. Flying in at night made it hard to see where we were, or what was around us. All we had was a small screen in front of us periodically showing us our progress and how close we were to Quito. All of the sudden the lights of a huge city appeared in the mountains, and we were right there. Flying in to the airport was much different than anything in the United States. We seemed to be surrounded by buildings and it was as if we flew right into the city. As we got off the plane, it was an amazing feeling to be in a different country for the first time. The language barrier quickly became apparent, and I knew what it felt like to be the foreigner for the first time in my life. Going through airport security and customs was also quite an interesting experience. I was prepared for a thorough questioning and a long wait, but I simply had to give him my passport and wait as he talked to his amiga in migracion. We made it through and loaded on to the bus that was waiting for us. Quito was unlike any city I had ever seen before. The city was very cramped and there were very few buildings over 3 or 4 stories high. It also quickly became apparent that the traffic laws were quite different than in the United States, if not completely nonexistent. Driving through the city and arriving at the hotel really made the reality of being in a different country for over two months set in.